Timber Wolves in Northern Minnesota
Autumn days are wonderful when they start changing to winter, and I can walk among the falling leaves. The sunshine in the fall (a bit early to say the same of winter) is warm and gentle on my back. I can put my backpack on the ground and lay my tired body on the dried grass in the sun. It seems that the forest when no one else is around after summer's end is kind to me as well. I wonder whether forest animals similarly enjoy autumn. On my travels in the United States I've met different kinds of animals, like the wild wolf that I saw for the first time at the Yellowstone National Park. It made a strong impression on me. Cool eyes. My visit at the Isle Royale National Park also gave a chance to observe wildlife.
 Washington Harbor |
Isle Royale National Park is located on the northern edge of Lake Superior, which extends from Minnesota to Michigan and on to Canada. I heard that wild wolves were living in the park. Thus the island got larger and larger in my imagination. Then I had the chance to see the island park which is closer to Minnesota than to the mainland of Michigan.
 My Campsite |
To reach the island, It is necessary to take a boat from Northern Michigan (Copper Harbor in Houghton) or Grand Portage in Minnesota. In either case, the drive takes three hours from the nearest airport. However, the area's natural beauties and my interest in seeing wolves didn't make me regret the distance. There is one lodge on the island, but it is very expensive during the summer season and very crowded. I didn't feel like staying there. In addition, the chance to see wolves in areas with people around is very rare.
So before arriving on the island I had already decided to set up camp. I went to the island during a late September week, when tourists were already few in number. That week the boat from Grand Portage in Minnesota was the last one of the season. The Captain of "Wenonah" told me with a wink: "Don't forget the return date, otherwise you will have to stay on the island until next year." Of course, he was joking.
 Moose |
After a boat trip of three hours, I arrived at Washington Harbor on the west side of the island. A park ranger greeted me. Upon reaching the island, one must stop at the visitor center, get permission to stay, and learn the few rules of conduct for visitors. The only difference between its rules and those of other parks is that you have to boil drinking water for more than two minutes. Other than this, there is a special warning about wild animals. While the tourist season was ending, the island was already showing its bright fall colors.
There are 36 campsites on the island, but only those near the visitor center are provided with bathrooms. Most of the sites are more remote in the woods. I decided to camp at Feldman Lake as the ranger had suggested. This young ranger told me that "during the summer wolves stay deep in the forest and no one has a chance to see them." Her words made me feel disappointed. She had worked on this island for two years, but had never yet seen a wolf.
 Red Fox |
Wolves came to the island in 1949. They had traveled across the frozen waters of Lake Superior. Other wild life such as moose had arrived earlier, swimming across the lake. In the early 1900s moose multiplied because there had plenty of food and no natural enemies. There were people, however, until the end of the mining boom. The moose have totaled more than 2,000 at one time, fluctuating in number because of forest fires and cold weather. Currently, they number about 1,100. In contrast, wolf numbers have reached a maximum of 50 though an average of 25 has been counted and only 17 during the winter of 2002. In 1996 the harsh cold weather killed many moose, while wolves survived eating the dead carcasses. Since then a healthy balance has been maintained in the numbers of wolves and moose based on nature's laws.
The path to Feldman Lake was an old trail made by animals entering the forest. Both moose and fox left their droppings as though to mark the path. Now and then the wild animals surprised me as they came from the bushes. And I paused to pick wild berries to quench my thirst and satisfy my hunger. It was as though I had entered an enchanted forest and the abundant mushrooms made me think of little elves or dwarves serenading me. The island was like nature's jewelry box.
 Wild Mushrooms |
When I set up my tent by the lake, I was in my own world. I dipped water to use in preparing rice for my stay of three nights. I cooked the rice and divided it in bowls, one for each day. My last job of the day was done. All I had to do was lay down and wait for animals to show up. I felt safe because there were no bears. Nor did I see any raccoons which steal food. Instead, a pair of fox showed up and we became friends. It seems they had never been threatened by people. They came very close and I could touch them if I wanted. When night descended, the sky was filled by so many stars it looked as if they were falling down. I could see the distant lake in the light cast by the bright stars. Later I was awakened from sleep by the sounds made by moose eating their early morning breakfast in the lake. Before daybreak I also thought that the wolves were howling. However, they never appeared during my three-day stay. I was still happy sharing the same ground and air where the animals had walked so many times. The warm fall days would soon end when the first snows covered the island.
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Isle Royale National Park 800 East Lakeshore Drive, Hougton, MI 49931 906-482-0984 www.nps.gov/isro |